Fall '23 Menswear Report

This season in menswear we are seeing a set of consistent trends from all major designers; from the continuation of the incorporation and setting of feminine elements in tailoring, fabrics and design, to the persistent element of "comfortable opulence". All throughout several collections we see designers adopt the element of comfort, and elevate it to an opulent and modern degree to appeal to the contemporary man. We also see the prevalence of feminine tailoring that has been dragged along for several seasons now, blurring the line between genders further more with each passing season and collection.

DIOR

The house of Christian Dior gifts us this season with a beautiful, elegant and modern collection. Neutral colors with splashes of pastels, soft and flowy fabrics, loose garments and impecable tailoring. The feminine touch is present throughout the entire collection with elements such as: soft, transparent fabrics, skirts and wide hemmed shorts that resemble skirts, beautifully embroidered coats, sweaters, knitwear and bags.

Leather, velvet and florals also make and appearance in the collection, as well as open arm cut coats that make the pieces a statement of their own and give the collection a modern appeal. There is also the presence of the fisherman style, with long woolen and leather coats, paired with long skirts, bucket hats and rain boots, all elevated to a couture level that only Dior knows how to deliver.

The mixture between rough and soft elements such as wools, leather, silks and florals and the pairing of light transparencies layered with heavy coats make this a fluid menswear collection in more ways than one. The structural tailoring. elements, take the garments to a modern era, appealing to contemporary man.

GIORGIO ARMANI

Giorgio Armani was probably one of the hardest working designers this season, showcasing not one, but several collections for his entire house range. This one in particular spoke to a more classic man, yet one that is not afraid to incorporate a bit of flare to its wardrobe without loosing that classic appeal. A collection that screams opulence, with beautifully tailored pieces in luxurious fabrics like wools, silks, velvet and leather. 

 

Layering was very present in the collection, bomber jackets over vests and beautifully patterned knitwear, wool neck rimmed jackets over turtle necks and elegant loose silk, wool or faux fur scarfs that complimented loose fit pants paired with ankle length boots. A more youthful and contemporary approach to a classic more demure yet styling man.

JW ANDERSON

The rebel child of the fashion world, Anderson once again makes a statement of his own with this his latest menswear collection. Blurring the line between genders, Anderson vows for a fluid transition between femininity and masculinity, showcasing one piece elements such as baggy "boyfriend" sweaters, feathery coats, "underwear" shorts and pijama like shirts with graphic elements, alongside skinny fit pants and low cut shirts, paired with leather jackets and coats. A play between masculinity and femininity, this collection speaks to a very modern, young man not afraid to take risks and very sure of their identity, someone willing to play and have fun with statement pieces that go beyond fashion itself. Really a conversation  turned into clothing, this collection speaks volumes with very little.

HERMES

Classic, youthful opulence. Hermes is no stranger to opulence and elegance, having held that beacon very high for many years. This collection brings the classic Hermes bag to its clothing. Beautifully tailored leather jackets, coats and pants in warm and cold tones paired with luxurious wools, knitwear and of course impecable, leather travel bags. A collection that has a classic feels with a modern youthful approach that appeals to the younger fashionista, without losing and embracing the Hermes identity.

SAINT LAURENT

This season we have been seeing the lines between genders being obliterated more than ever and the house of Saint Laurent, under their new leadership, was one of the greatest keynoter to do so. Going back to YSL archives for inspiration, this season Saint Laurent took some of the most prominent pieces from their women's collections and implemented them to menswear.  A collection the screams elegance and beauty, classic in nature and inspiration and yet modern and contemporary in all counts. 

Beautiful transparent silks shirts and silk shirts with deconstructed bows paired with leather pants, scarfs (also styled as deconstructed bows). Loose fit pants paired with floor length long elegant coats, and beautiful "V' neck jumpsuits and turtle neck onesies marched down the runway in an elegant parade of androgynous, gender fluid pieces.

Black and white were the staple colors of this collection, keeping everything neutral and elegant and giving the collection a demure and sophisticated appeal. A magnificent collection that speaks of the current times, that will go the the fashion archives.

LOUIS VUITTON

Continuity is what Vigil is giving us with this latest menswear collection, following with the art and graphic elements we've seen in the past, maintaining also the oversized, street style - urban appeal. Playful and youthful pieces for the experimental fashionista that is looking for more that the regular, still maintaining classic silhouettes. Room for exploration was left by Virgil, taking inspiration from some asian elements, portrait in some of the pieces. Overall the collection is very much exploratory and urban in nature, with several elements withdrawn from Virgil's imagination and inspirations. The collection goes from colorful and graphic splashes to more classical suits, still maintaining the urban approach that Virgil known and praised for.