Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 18-19
Change is good. The decision to rename the house´s creative director was a definitely a good one. Now Lead by Clare Waight Keller, the worldwide famous design house makes a fenomenal comeback ( not that it ever went away, but that´s how it feels) to the runway with this minimal yet intricate and beautifully tailored collection. Cest simplement merveilleux!
This collection was simply marvelous. Stunning, ethereal pieces walked down a beautiful mirrored runway in the a Parisian palace garden. Keller, took a retrospective look into the house´s archives and come up with this beautifully executed collection. I personally enjoyed most the minimal approach of it all, it was quite mesmerizing and refreshing to see this minimal yet eye catching pieces walk down a couture show. Were we usually see pompous displays of tailoring, Keller gave us an array of mixtures that simply took my breath away.
The minimal tailoring mixed with intricate embroidery and appliqués details were definitely a seen to behold, something that caught my eye from the very start; the mix of the ¨roughness¨ of the metallic fabrics and pieces with soft, flowing fabrics gave the collection that stand out element with effortless ease. The play between the masculinity and femininity was also another element on display throughout the entire collection, the use of both symmetric and asymmetric cuts, along with exaggerated cuts and elongated pieces, the play between opaqué darker tones with silk and velvet fabrics and organzas, and beautiful embroidery and feathery appliqués, the seamless layering with all these elements on display, all of this beautiful execution and the effortless appeal of it all, is what makes the Givenchy house what it is today.
You could see the middle ages hints of inspiration here and there, in choices of fabrics, tailoring details, the use of metallics, both fabrics and pieces, mesh head pieces and metallic wrist bands, tri colored toned dresses, making this a unique and glorious collection for the ages. I guess this proves that it doesn´t hurt to step back and take a retrospective look from time to time, like Keller just showed us.
One other thing to point out, or rather two things, were the fact of the inclusion of menswear in this couture show and the finale, when the entire team from the Givenchy house stepped out at the end of the show along the head designer and took their bow of credit, for it is truly not a one ¨men¨ job, but rather a collective effort, and that was truly admirable what Clare did there, hopefully setting a new standard for other designers and design houses.